A New Sparkling Heart

Featured Articles, Vinified

Through the creation of Corpinnat, quality-minded producers in Spain have established a new sparkling wine identity.

WORDS L.M. Archer

In2017, six iconic Catalan Cava producers concerned with the standards of the category decided it was time to establish a new collective brand for quality Spanish sparkling wine. Called Corpinnat, or “heart of Penedès,” the goal of the new designation was to better define and distinguish the best bubbles made in the classic wine region, largely considered the cradle of Spain’s sparkling wine production.

Though some were unsure about the initiative at start, and what leaving the familiarity of the widely established Cava D.O. (Denominación de Origen) might impact, it’s clear that Corpinnat has made a strong mark. There are now 12 member wineries in the association, and in 2023, more than 2.282 million bottles of Corpinnat were sold in 66 countries worldwide.

Located approximately 25 miles west of Barcelona, the mountainous, mineral rich area of Penedès boasts a warm Mediterranean climate that’s tempered by cool winds. Corpinnat’s territory within the region encompasses 46 municipalities, with approximately 56,750 acres of vineyards.

Registered through the European Union, the collective brand is managed by L’Associació d’Elaboradors i Viticultors Corpinnat (The Association of Wine Producers and Growers Corpinnat, or AVEC) and is differentiated through meticulous, environmentally mindful, terroir-driven standards. Producers must exclusively use certified organic grapes that are hand-harvested and grown within the specified territory. Any purchased fruit stipulates a long-term contract with grower, in addition­ to a minimum guaranteed price.

The wines must comprise 90 percent indigenous varieties, including Macabeo, Malvasía, Parellada and Xarel-lo, among others,­ and a maximum of 10 percent other authorized varieties, including Malvasia de Sitges, Trepat, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Additionally, vinification must occur on-premise at Corpinnat-exclusive wineries, meaning members may not also produce D.O. Cava selections. Bottles carry a certified organic seal and use natural cork closures, and must be aged in bottle a minimum of 18 months, oftentimes more. Producers must also annually certify for regulatory compliance through a third-party auditor.

Dive deeper into these exceptional bottles with more about the collective brand’s founding families: Gramona, Llopart, Nadal, Recaredo, Sabaté i Coca and Torelló.

Photograph of Jaume Gramona sitting on the ground in the vineyards of Corpinnat, Spain

Gramona

This historic estate features an award-winning winery that features bio­climatic architecture design. Today, it is helmed by fifth-generation wine­maker Jaume Gramona Martí (above), with assistance­ from his son Roc and nephew Leonard. Farmed bio­dynamically, the winery employs seasonally centered agricultural practices that incorporate native Catalan Albera cows to clear forests and provide manure, sheep to graze pollinator bee-attracting cover crops, horses to plow fields and falcons for bird control during harvest.

Llopart

The historic multigeneration Llopart family estate in Subirats dates to 1385. Sparkling wine production began in 1887, and the winery’s Les Flandes vineyards were planted between 1940 and 1960. Today, the organic estate respects­ its origins through sustain­ability and innovation—­during Penedès’ catastrophic 2023 droughts, Llopart employed a cutting-edge tilling system that indents small puddles in the soil to prevent water escape and avoid nutrient loss due to erosion, which was chronicled on its Instagram account.

A man holds a baskey full of harvested grapes on his shoulders with views of vineyards and mountains in front of him
A picture of the Nadal family in front of their winemaking facility and vineyards in Corpinnat, Spain

Nadal

Founded in 1510, Nadal suffered appropriation­ as an aerodrome during­ the Spanish Civil War (1936–39). Post-war, Ramón Nadal Giró reclaimed the family vineyard, moving away from wine-based spirits to sparkling wine production. Now, third-generation general director and enologist Xavier Nadal Penadés collaborates with his daughter Mireia Nadal Velencoso on groundbreaking wines like the Plot Twist lineup, which embodies classic styling alongside a hint of modernity and subtle presence of the Malvasia de Sitges grape variety.

Recaredo

Enologist Ton Mata represents the third generation at this family estate, founded in 1924. Recaredo was Penedès’ first biodynamic producer, with certification achieved in 2010. The winery dedicates 60 percent of its vineyards to heat and altitude-adaptable Xarel-lo, with a preference to long-age (30 months or more) its brut nature wines. The family uses cuttings from its oldest vines to establish new vines, thereby enhancing genetic biodiversity and resilience.

A man and a horse plow between rows of vines in the vineyards of Recaredo in Corpinnat, Spain
A landscape picture of rows of vineyards in the foreground, with a winery building center and mountains under a blue sky in the background, in Corpinnat, Spain

Sabaté i Coca

Fourth-generation viticulturist and winemaker Marcel Sabaté i Coca, a pioneer in vins de terrer (wines of terroir), oversees the Bitlles Valley biodynamic estate, which contains 18 soil classifications and 66 microplots across nearly 100 acres. Wines that are blended and aged 18 months carry the Castellroig label, while Sabaté i Coca wines are sourced from unique high-quality parcels and aged 38 months. Both brands display a butterfly logo, symbolizing the family’s commitment to sustainability.

Torelló

The iconic Can Martí estate in Alt Penedès traces its heritage to 1395, with sparkling wine production commencing in 1951 by Francisco Torelló. Currently, Francisco’s daughter, Ernestina Torelló Llopart (pictured, center), and sons Toni de la Rosa Torelló (pictured, right) and Paco de la Rosa Torelló (pictured, left), who reflect the 22nd and 23rd generations at the estate, carry on his vision. The biodiverse grounds that cover around 334 acres boast wine grapes, olives, bees and abundant native flora and fauna.

The Torello family—mother and two sons—in Corpinnat, Spain
Illustration from the Fall 2024 cover of Full Pour, featuring a cornucopia of beverage-centric ingredients, such as grapes, hops, grains, etc.

This article was published in the Fall 2024 issue of Full Pour. Don’t own it? Pick one up today!