New Gin Frontier

Distilled, Featured Articles

The versatile and botanical-driven spirit can take a distinct page from the place it’s made.

WORDS Adam H. Callaghan

Given the planet’s widespread variety of juniper species and the countless additional botanicals that can be used to flavor gin, it was only a matter of time before distillers worldwide sought a stronger sense of place for the boldly flavored spirit, rather than simply recreating London dry. Keeping culturally relevant botanicals and nature conservation at the forefront of their processes, here are six visionaries transforming the notion of terroir in gin.

A photograph of the distillery and rack house at BlackFork Farms in South Dakota.

BlackFork Farms • Brandt, South Dakota

This sixth-generation farm in the grasslands of South Dakota grows heirloom grains with an eye toward future generations, practicing sustainability through organic crop rotation for soil health and preservation of wetlands and groves amid the farmland for biodiverse natural habitat. Whiskey is king here, so the flowery Spring Terroir Gin starts with a low wine whiskey that ultimately soaks up the subtle fruitiness of botanicals like blackberry leaf, hibiscus and elderberry.

Four Pillars Gin • Yarra Valley, Australia

Master distiller Sarah Prowse takes advantage of her wine background and Four Pillars’ location in Yarra Valley wine country for Bloody Shiraz, which picks up the deep ruby color of Australia’s famous Syrah grapes for a full-bodied, dark-fruity gin. Olive Leaf, on the other hand, is practically a dirty martini in the bottle, leading with regional olive oil and olive leaf tea and supported by native botanicals like lemon myrtle and macadamia nuts.

Raw distillation ingredients in a bucket ready for the still at Four Pillars Gin.
Herbal Kulen guest experience tasting, showing a distiller and two guests seated with glasses in hand and raw distillation ingredients on a table before them.

Herbal Kulen • Siem Reap, Cambodia

In the foothills of Cambodia’s Kulen Mountains, Herbal Kulen owner Pari Sophary has rescued deforested land for a permaculture medicinal forest garden. Beneath the rejuvenated tree canopy, she harvests native ingredients like lemongrass, holy basil and turmeric for tisanes, essential oils and an herbaceous small-batch gin. Sophary, who also owns the Siem Reap bar Asana, offers private farm tours through select partners like nearby resort FCC Angkor by Avani, for whom she also provides a distinct house-label gin with brighter notes.

Procera • Nairobi, Kenya

Procera is the first distiller to use Africa’s native Juniperus procera, which soaks up the sun at extreme elevation in Kenya’s highland forests. A sugarcane base spirit is flavored with only fresh juniper berries, which offer what chief distiller John Kioko calls a “liveliness and lushness” you don’t typically get from the dried fruit. The Green Dot expression is a single-origin product like no other, featuring berries, foliage and charred wood from a single juniper tree.

Procera Gin's Red Dot Bottle depicted in nature with raw ingredients around it and a beautiful horizon in the background.
Hands harvesting berries for gin distillation at Song Cai distillery in Vietnam

Sông Cái Distillery • Hanoi, Vietnam

Vietnam’s first gin maker, Sông Cái was born of Vietnamese American founder Daniel Nguyen’s work with Indigenous tribes like the Hmong to add value to communities and preserve the biodiversity of northern jungles through farming and foraging. Endemic mountain botanicals like pomelo, black cardamom and white licorice root form a savory, spicy profile in the Dry Gin, while the Floral Gin highlights the delicate flavors of flowers from the delta like jasmine, ylang ylang and pomelo blossoms.

St. George Spirits • Alameda, California

“I was inspired by the way the forest and hills smelled on a summer afternoon and was moved to create a gin that evoked a sense of that place,” says St. George master distiller Lance Winters of Terroir Gin. Wintergreen, pine and citrus character come from Bay Area native botanicals like fresh California bay laurel and Douglas fir, while imported elements including cinnamon and wok-roasted coriander suggest dusty trails and shrubby chaparral. “When it all comes together, Terroir drinks like a walk in the woods.”

St. George Spirits Master Distiller Lance Winters with foraged California bay laurel branch in hand

Master Distiller Lance Winters / Emma K. Creative

Full Pour Summer 2025 issue front cover illustration, by Sol Cotti

This article was published in the Fall 2025 issue of Full Pour. Don’t own it? Pick one up today!