Pour One with Gregory Gourdet

A conversation with Chef Gregory Gourdet about bringing zero-proof offerings and Caribbean flavors to the forefront.

WORDS Lauren Yoshiko

A lthough the city of Portland, Oregon has had a longer, more challenging post-­pandemic comeback than some other­ cities, its food and drink scene has not. It’s back, and it’s banging, led by Kann and Sousòl, a destination restaurant and cocktail bar on the same block opened by celebrated chef, best-selling author and two-time Top Chef finalist Gregory Gourdet.

Kann’s live-fired menu of dishes inspired by Gourdet’s Haitian heritage and the cuisines of the African and Caribbean diaspora won Best New Restaurant at the James Beard Awards in 2023, while Sousòl—a subterranean sibling to Kann, located directly underneath it, punctuated with pops of fuschia velvet seats, emerald tile details and savory wafts from the kitchen—landed on Esquire’s 2023 list of Best Bars in America. Notably, it was the only one on the list whose zero-proof offerings came just as recommended as its full-proof drinks.

You see, in this lowlit, vibe-heavy speakeasy, the suite of zero-proof mocktails are treated with the same creativity, reverence to Caribbean flavors and colorful garnish as the full-proof cocktails. That in itself captures the mini revolution happening underground in this corner of Southeast Portland: How, in 2023, the coolest bars can, and perhaps should, get as adventurous and sophisticated with their zero-proof offerings as any other potable on the menu.

For Gourdet, who’s been sober for over 14 years, it wasn’t so much a radical decision as a natural choice for the first culinary project all his own. In this conversation, Gourdet shares his inspiration, expectations for a multi­proof landscape and favorite sips at Sousòl.

Which came first, Kann or Sousòl?

Kann was a labor of love that took four-plus years to bring to life. Sousòl was more of the “cherry on top” because it allowed us to present other influential cuisines of the diaspora through food. Adding a bar below Kann wasn’t in the original plan, but the opportunity presented itself, and we dove at the chance to create another unique experience for guests. Sousòl allowed us to expand our influence to include the flavors and ingredients of Haiti, Cuba, The Dominican Republic, Trinidad and Tobago, Jamaica, Mexico and more.

What were your priorities when crafting Sousòl’s menu, from alcoholic drinks to zero proof and wine?

Sousòl is driven by a vision to share, celebrate and foster an appreciation of pan-Caribbean flavors. The menu encourages guests to discover lesser-known ingredients across a menu of cocktails, zero-proof beverages and bar snacks. Coconut, for example, shows up in the bright and tropical Saint Lucia cocktail with melon-infused tequila and raspberry, the rum-based Jungle Phoenix in the form of clarified coconut milk punch, and the zero-proof Kokoye alongside Haitian ginger tea, cinnamon and lime. We welcome all walks of life to explore the Caribbean’s flavors, spices and history, whether they consume alcohol or not.

Although zero-proof offerings are becoming more of an established fixture at many bars everywhere, they are not executed equally. It’s one thing to have a couple of virgin spritz items, and quite another to offer the same range of experiences to guests across the proof spectrum. What are your thoughts on the overall trend?

As a longtime sober individual, the non-alcoholic offerings were equally important to my vision as full-proof items. I think having something delicious to drink during your meal or experience—alcoholic or not—is a crucial component. Leaning into flavors of the Caribbean allowed us to create a unique and interesting menu of zero-proof drinks that feel much more full-bodied than a basic mocktail.

Which of the drinks on the current zero-proof menu is your favorite?

The Gourdet AKA The Haitian Hummingbird [ginger, lime, honey and sparkling water] is one of my go-to drinks, which you might have been able to tell by the name. Our mixologists were able to fuse sweet with spicy and tartness to create a complex drink that hits all the right notes.