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It’s time for namazake, the vibrant early-release sake that celebrates the change of season.
WORDS Shana Clarke
Right when flowers start to bloom, another debut marks the start of spring: nama sake, or namazake. Meaning “raw” or “alive,” namas are fresh sakes released early in the brewing season. Because they don’t go through the shelf-stabilizing process of pasteurization, they are not as easy to find stateside as other sake styles, but they’re definitely worth the hunt.
“Namas are bright, punchy, chewy, tart and heady,” says Monica Samuels, president of Komé Collective, an importer of premium Japanese sake and spirits. Because of namazake’s vibrant and energetic profile, “it’s a great option for people newer to sake,” she says.
In Japan, namazake signifies the changing of the season. “It’s a pretty dramatic shift to have these brash, lively sakes hitting the market as the first thaws are happening and shoots are emerging from the ground—feels like a very poetic sign of new life,” says Samuels. “It’s also common to drink nama while viewing the cherry blossoms.”
Traditionally, sakes go through two rounds of pasteurization in the brewing process: once after filtration and again before bottling. It kills unwanted bacteria and enzymes that could produce off flavors and colors.
While these steps protect the quality and integrity of sake, they can also slightly alter some of the beverage’s qualities.
“For sake, pasteurization is essential; it locks in the intent of the brewer,” says Brian Polen, cofounder of Brooklyn Kura in Brooklyn, New York. “That said, namas tend to be more lively and young where pasteurized sakes can be more subdued and refined.”
“Namas are bright, punchy, chewy, tart and heady—it’s a great option for people newer to sake.”
Think of namazakes as the funky kid sibling to classic sakes. In Boston, sake bar The Koji Club throws an annual cherry blossom namazake disco, where guests taste the new releases side-by-side with pasteurized versions.
Importing these fragile sakes is no small feat. Namas need to remain cold (below 50-degrees Fahrenheit) for their entire journey, and once they arrive at their destination, they need to be immediately refrigerated. In general, they have a shelf life of about six months, so demand to buy—and consume—can be fast and furious.
With the rise of sake breweries stateside, new opportunities arise to drink these youthful sakes year-round. At Brooklyn Kura’s tap room, nama sakes are regularly poured from the bottle and on draft. “Namas are intended to be sold, served and enjoyed locally,” says Polen.
Forget rosé season—everything’s coming up namazake.
NAMA SAKES TO TRY
Heaven’s Door Tokubetsu Junmai, Ama No To, Akita Prefecture: Tropical fruit notes like guava and passionfruit give way to salty sourdough.
Moon on the Water Junmai Ginjo, Fukucho, Hiroshima Prefecture: This sake brings to mind a salty margarita and Key lime pie.
Nama, Kato Sake Works, Brooklyn, NY: Ginger, lychee and apple stand out in this raw sake. Taste it next to the classic Junmai for a fun comparison.
Number Fourteen Junmai Ginjo, Brooklyn Kura, Brooklyn, NY: A brewery classic, this sake is crisp, dry and a perfect balance of fruit and umami.